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The sweet smell of pan dulce and the equally sweet, earthy scent of mole fills the space at La Yalaltequita.
But the Mexican bakery and restaurant on the corner of Crenshaw and Venice Blvd is more than just a place to buy food. La Yalatequita has served as a cultural hub for over 18 years, preserving Oaxacan culinary traditions.
For many patrons, La Yalatequita is like a slice of home, providing many with a sense of nostalgia.
“Our culture is still alive here. Eating the tlayudas or simply getting bread reminds me of Oaxaca even though we’re in Los Angeles,” longtime customer Graciela Hernandez said.
Sinecio Mecinas, a third-generation Indigenous Latino business owner originally from Villa Hidalgo Yalálag in Oaxaca, opened the restaurant and bakery to preserve and share Oaxacan culture through food.
The hub serves traditional dishes such as caldo, and tlayudas – a thin, crunchy tortilla covered with refried beans, lettuce, meat and cheese – and not to mention pan dulce.
Growing up in Oaxaca, traditions were part of everyday life for Mecinas. As a child, he learned different trades, including making huaraches, baking bread, and working in construction and agriculture.
He dreamed of opening his panadería for years and decided to make it a reality, with the added idea of including a restaurant that would also be a bakery. He started the business with his family and focused on Oaxacan gastronomy.
“We dedicate ourselves to the culture, especially the food of Oaxaca,” Mecinas said.
Reminders of home
While it was important to emphasize the rich cultural heritage in the food, starting the business was not easy.
The bakery officially opened in 2008, in the middle of the Great Recession. Mecinas faced many challenges from the start. At the time, smaller businesses faced higher risk of failure since many people were careful with their spending, according to historical research.
As La Yalaltequita continued to co-exist with neighboring businesses such as Mateo’s Ice Cream, Carniceria Oaxaquena, Corredor Oaxaca, and Dina’s Flower Shop, they all had their way of creating that homey feeling for Oaxaqueños.
“I don’t get to travel often because of school, but this bakery reminds me of Oaxaca and my family’s recipes,” said Elizabeth, a member of the community who is of Oaxacan descent.
Mid-City LA has evolved over time, and the Oaxacan presence there is part of a more recent layer of history. The neighborhood lies adjacent to the Crenshaw District, a neighborhood known as an important cultural center in Los Angeles.
Known for its Black-owned businesses andculture. However, like many parts of L.A., the area has grown to be multicultural. Many Latino communities began residing in the Crenshaw area, including large numbers of Indigenous migrants from Oaxaca during the ‘80s. The cultural landmark where La Yalaltequita resides is known as “Oaxacan Corridor.”
While the official area is along Pico Boulevard and not exactly on Crenshaw and Venice, it reflects the presence of Oaxacan Communities across Mid-City. In 2023, the corridor was formally recognized by the city as a cultural hub for Oaxacans, celebrating their culture and contribution to Los Angeles.
“For over six decades, Oaxaqueños have called the area of Pico Boulevard, between Arlington Avenue and Westmoreland Avenue, their home, establishing businesses and growing a successful community,” said Councilmember Heather Hutt in a 2023 proclamation. “The designation of the Oaxacan Corridor was long overdue, and was a meaningful step in celebrating and honoring their contributions to our City.”
Mecinas believes Oaxacan cuisine has become widely recognized around the world and plays an important role in maintaining cultural identity. Oaxacan food is known for its history and connection to tradition, often preserved through family recipes passed down for generations.
For Mecinas and his family, these are not just menu items; they are expressions of their passion to serve and share their culture. Their authenticity allows customers who come from similar backgrounds to feel a sense of community. Mecinas said that he chose the name of the bakery intentionally to create more than just a business.
“I chose the name, La Yalaltequita, because it represents the community and where I come from,” Mecinas said.