In an area of Boyle Heights where rustic, nondescript warehouses line the edge of the Los Angeles River, a long-lost fine art amusement park known as Luna Luna has resurfaced and opened its doors for a limited time.
Luna Luna’s unexpected resurgence comes with some minor but key adjustments. Austrian multimedia artist and Luna Luna founder André Heller first debuted this whimsical spectacle in 1987 at a verdant, grassy fairground in Hamburg, Germany. Now, the amusement park has traded its lush, green German location for a giant warehouse in Boyle Heights that once housed art galleries.
In its beginnings, Luna Luna wowed audiences with its elaborate carnival attractions and rides designed by the art world’s giants and fledgling talents. Many of the attractions, with a few exceptions, are no longer rideable; carousels and Ferris wheels purposely turn on and off at random intervals as if a playful spirit from decades past were teasing you.
Now more of an art exhibit than a carnival, some might wonder if Luna Luna is worth the price tag if the experience elicits a desire to visit the amusement park in its former glory. Tickets are priced between $20 to $85 depending on the time and day of the week.
Carmen, an attendee who only shared her first name, said she found out about Luna Luna via social media and was happy she and her boyfriend were able to attend. “I would’ve paid more, it’s definitely worth it,” Carmen said.
Visitors can still marvel at attractions such as bright, multi-colored carnival flags crafted by German painter and designer Monika Gilsing; Spanish surrealist artist Salvador Dali crafted “Dalídome”, a mirror funhouse that distorts the senses of those who dare enter; Brooklyn, NY-born wunderkind Jean-Michel Basquiat painted playful yet thought-provoking images on a Ferris wheel which played Mile Davis’ song “Tutu” on a loop. “In some spaces,” Carmen said, “You become part of the art.”
The functional art exhibit was originally scheduled to go on a world tour shortly after its debut but due to a series of legal disputes and mishaps, the park attractions ended up sealed in 44 shipping containers in Texas. They remained there for more than three decades. Now, the original works have been unearthed and restored for public viewing.
This nostalgic longing for a fun memory that doesn’t exist is what makes this exhibit stand out. The seemingly random location, a former industrial district in one of LA’s oldest neighborhoods, adds to its mystique.
Upon arrival at the site, attendees are greeted by an unusual sight: a giant, inflatable, red-colored structure titled “Dream Station” which formerly housed a cafe. Its design is playful, resembling a cross between a sea anemone and the type of bounce houses often used at children’s parties. Spotting “Dream Station” marks the beginning of the Luna Luna experience and leaves the viewer wondering if this amusement park has perhaps been here all along.
Once inside the warehouse, you walk through a long dark hallway lit purple-blue until arriving at a small room. Attendees watch a brief video with scenes and commentary from Heller and artists like Keith Haring, then walk into a larger clearing where all of the original attractions are on display.
Ethereal, synth-heavy carnival music composed by Daniel Wohl blares out of speakers throughout the 50,000-square-foot space, encasing park-goers in a surrealistic sonic landscape. Large, dimly lit ceiling lamps hung above the attractions produce a yellowish hue making each piece appear otherworldly.
From this point forward, attendees can create their own experience by wandering around the park grounds and studying the attractions that stand out to them. Those with a moon pass (an extra fee) can step inside the Dalídome and experience their sense of space and time warp, or enter David Hockney’s Enchanted Tree and stare at geometric shapes resembling a grand tree with prominent foliage.
An employee at the entrance of Enchanted Tree told Boyle Heights Beat that while his initial sense of awe at the exhibit had diminished, there was one attraction that continued to pique his curiosity.
“The one thing that still wows me is the [chair] swing carousel, there’s always something new to see,” the employee said.
Designed by pop art surrealist Kenny Scharf, the painted chair swing ride is a large, brightly colored carousel covered in abstract symbols and alien-like characters. When it’s in motion, small light bulbs on its side flicker to create a strobe light effect. The characters’ faces are illuminated as the ride’s whirling movement seemingly brings them to life.
Eagle Rock resident Steve B. and his girlfriend Carmen witnessed this spectacle and marveled as they watched it spin until it suddenly came to a halt. “We think it’s great, we love to see the artists’ perspectives,” Steve B. said, “And I think the music adds to it.”
Carmen was unsure whether Eastside residents knew about the art event and remarked how it would be a good experience for local families. “I hadn’t heard about it [until social media] and you can easily bring a lot of families from the Eastside to enjoy this attraction,” Carmen said.
Philip Glass’ labyrinthian pavilion, featuring a mirrored blue interior designed by André Heller. Photo by Alex Medina. 
Erik Brauser’s carousel, featuring eight different unique characters as seats, is located next to Manfred Deix’s Palace of the Winds. Photo by Alex Medina. 
Cartoon sculptures crafted by Kenny Scharf. Photo by Alex Medina. 
Exhibit attendees explore a timeline on historical events that helped inspire Luna Luna. Photo by Alex Medina.
Parker West, a Luna Luna employee, voiced a similar sentiment. West worked as an officiant at André Heller’s Wedding Chapel, an unofficial chapel dedicated to blessing the unions of any people. Heller introduced this component as a way for same-sex couples to marry, which was illegal in Germany until 2017.
Since Luna Luna’s grand opening in late December, West has officiated weddings for people visiting from all over the world. She said one group she hasn’t seen much of are folks from Boyle Heights and other parts of the Eastside. West, an educator who teaches comic book-making classes, said she’d like to see more field trips to the amusement park. “I would love to have more schools come here, local schools,” West said.
What Luna Luna does best is utilize its status as a mythical, long-lost art carnival to elicit a sense of wonder and nostalgia in the viewer. From start to finish, this exhibit is a well-curated escapade that relies on its enigmatic aura to attract audiences, but it could benefit from targeted publicity to ensure Eastsiders can also enjoy this wonderland hidden in their backyard.
Luna Luna currently runs until Sunday, Mar. 3. Tickets can be purchased online here.
