Starting in October, pan de muerto begins to pop up in panaderías shelves across the Eastside. The round, fluffy and often sugar-dusted bread spiced with cinnamon has a distinctive cross-shaped design said to resemble skeleton bones.
A tradition in Mexico, pan de muerto is largely used as an offering to honor loved ones who have died. The ritual involves setting up an altar with photos, marigolds, foods and other personal items on or before Día de los Muertos Nov. 1 and 2.
But while pan de muerto is sought by many, it’s not always easy to find a vegan version.
At Soy Concha, an all-vegan Mexican bakery in East L.A., pan de muerto is a top seller around the holiday. Customers shuffle in and order their favorite Mexican sweet bread to take home to their families and leave with pan de muerto orders. Ross Mazariegos, the bakery’s owner, says it’s his way of allowing vegan community members to join the table and honor their loved ones.
“The tradition is that you eat with [the dead],” Mazariegos said. “Now [vegan customers] can actually eat pan de muerto with [their ancestors].”
Vegan food in Los Angeles has evolved from simple salads and veggie burgers to dishes like mushroom based vegan “al pastor” bowls near Mariachi Plaza, plant based carne asada fries in Lincoln Heights or dairy-free horchata at local Eastside cafes.
Mazariegos, too, avoids animal products in his baking. Unlike most panaderías, his doesn’t use egg, milk or butter in any of its breads. He substitutes cow’s milk for soy milk. Aquafaba, the viscous liquid leftover from chickpeas, takes the place of egg. And he uses palm shortening instead of butter.
The taste is so indistinguishable Mazariegos says some of his customers wouldn’t even know his bread was vegan if he didn’t tell them.
James Escamilla stopped by Soy Concha on a recent morning to pick up some conchas and empanadas for his family. The Montebello resident has made Soy Concha his go-to because he says vegan bread leaves him feeling lighter than traditional baked goods do.
“I consider it like walking into your family’s place. He takes good care of you,” Escamilla said of the service Mazariego provides.
Soy Concha began as a family bakery in Santa Ana under a different name, but when Mazariegos transitioned as the sole owner of a new East L.A. storefront in 2022, he wanted to make some changes.
While other panaderías in L.A. offer vegan pan de muerto and pan dulce options, Mazariegos prides himself on Soy Concha’s full vegan menu and says customers from across the country come to try his unique selection of bread.
Inside the panadería in a strip mall on Whittier Boulevard, chocolate-filled elotitos sit beside colorful, seasonally decorated conchas in his display. Pan de muerto coated with pink or black sugar catches the eyes of almost every customer, Mazariegos said. His vegan take on Gansitos, the popular Mexican snack cake, is a hit with his clientele.
Mazariegos says he also enjoys the opportunity to share his culture with customers and is what helps him better connect with his own Mexican identity.
“Customers sometimes come and say, ‘Oh, give me that little ball,’ or ‘Give me that little stick,’” Mazariegos said, adding that he gently teaches customers the traditional names of each type of bread.
“And sometimes, if they come here for a long time, then they ask, ‘Where does this bread come from?’ And then I kind of talk about the history of our Mexican bread,” he said.
Mazariegos believes tradition should be celebrated year-round and has components of his Día de los Muertos altar up permanently at his business to honor his culture. He says he usually organizes a meal with his wife and three children for the holiday, but in his panadería, he enjoys making the season special for everyone.
“Any person that is vegan or not vegan can try our bread… And if you follow the tradition, you can make the offering for anyone. It’s like you’re having a family reunion with them,” he said, with his hands still covered in flour, sugar and a dash of cinnamon.
Soy Concha is located at 6164 Whittier Blvd. East Los Angeles, CA. 90022. You can find more information on its website or Instagram.
